Wednesday, September 18, 2019

National Geographic Tour of Israel and Jordan Guided by G Adventures 1 - 15 Sept 2019

Israel 1 - 8 Sept 2019

We arrived in Jerusalem a day before the trip started to get adjusted and see parts of the Old City that would not be on the tour. We had 16 people in our group. Most were American, one Australian and three Irish. Three were only on for the Israel part, but three more replaced them for Jordan.
Standing L - R: Bob, Garrett, Brian, Therese, Cissell, Lauve, me, Ken, Dorinne, Chris, Karen, Carol, Vayia, Allison
Kneeling: Jill, Heidi
Spice vendor at markets in the Old City
Our first tour day was spent in the Old City, where the important Jewish, Muslim and Christian religious sites are. The Old City is part of East Jerusalem which Israel captured from Jordan in the 1967 war and is now annexed. Strangely enough, the Old City is administered by Jordan. West Jerusalem has always been part of Israel since 1948.
Dome of the Rock on Temple Mount - second most holy site for Muslims
Western Wall - holy for Jews because it is under the Dome of the Rock which was built on top of the first and second temples
 Site of the crucifixion of Jesus in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher and a station on the way of the cross, Via Delarosa.

Evan, a Zionist, was one of our speakers. Our guide, Jalal Awad, seated on the left.
We had three speakers to present their perspective on the Israeli, Palestinian situation. One was a young Palestinian who owned a book store in East Jerusalem, another was a Zionist trying to get consensus by gathering extremists from both sides to find common ground and the third was a professor from the Christian Bible College. I could go on and on about what we learned, but as we all know it is very complicated. I can say that what I learned from these and other discussions satisfied one of my primary goals for the trip.
View of the Temple Mount and further to West Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives

Oscar Schindler's grave in a Catholic cemetary

Results of our dinner cooking class in Markane Yahuda Market area
Netanyahu is depending on his relationship with Trump for his reelection Sept 17th

Outside of the very well done Dead Sea Scrolls Museum
Impressive entrance to Israel Museum

Entrance to Palestinian refugee camp near Bethlehem
The key represents the Palestinian determination to return to the homes their ancestors left during the 1948 war that established Israel as a country. Palestinians are a very determined people who say they will never forget.
Refugee women who run a school for disabled children and have a restaurant to support their program
The lunch they served us

Shepard's Field Church where the angel came to announce the birth of Jesus

The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem. This is the place you can reach in and touch the rock where Jesus was born.

Wall surrounding Jewish settlement in the West Bank near Bethlehem

Banksy painting on the wall
The hike up to Masada that we didn't take - too hot!
Masada is a mountain top fortress built by King Harrod where during the Jewish revolt against the Romans in 70 CE 900 Jews withstood a three year siege by 8000 Romans till the Romans finally breeched the defenses and the Jews killed each other rather than surrendering to become slaves.

A scale model showing how water was harvested for the fortress. Also a good idea of what the whole place looks.
Lauve's water ballet in the Dead Sea
You could get baptized in the clean part of the Jordan River up stream from where Jesus was baptized

Wine tasting at Golan Winery, the biggest in Israel
Lauve and others contemplating walking on the Sea of Galilee

Grounds of the Baha'i Temple in Haifa
Modern Haifa, Israel's third largest city
Tel Aviv from Jaffa
Sunset in Jaffa
In 1908 sixty six Jewish families in Jaffa decided to chip in and buy property to start a modern city on the Mediterranean. It is now Tel Aviv and the descendants of those families are very rich!

From Tel Aviv we bussed two hours to the border of Jordan for our transfer to our Jordanian guide.

Jordan 8 - 15 Sept 2019

View from roof of our hotel in Amman, the Landmark

After an introduction meeting, our Jordanian guide, Ayman Khattab, took us to an inexpensive local restaurant. We had hummus and a couple versions of falafel. Delicious!

Lauve helping to make Jordanian ice cream for dessert
 The first day we visited Jerash, an ancient Greek then Roman city near Amman - the best preserved ancient city outside of Europe.
Entrance to Jerash
The forum looking down Cardio Maximus, the main street.
We learned the importance of the Greek and Roman theaters. Designed with acoustics in mind, these structures allowed for efficient political and social communication on a mass scale promoting unity and control of residents.
Roman theater at Jerash
Another cooking class. Ayman, our guide, on the right.

Yum!
Monument at Mt Nebo

Mt Nebo is where Moses ended up after he led his people out of Egypt. It overlooks the Jordan River Valley. We visited a Franciscan church that had a beautiful mosaic. The Franciscans made a monument commemorating all three prophets: Moses, Jesus and Mohamed.
The mosaic
Entrance to Petra slowly revealing The Treasury
Petra is the naturally fortified capital of the Nabatean culture which controlled most trade in the area from the 4th century BCE to 106 CE when the Romans conquered them. All the structures were carved out of the sandstone walls of the gorge.

The Treasury - probably combination library, tomb and administration

The Monastery up 850 steps from the gorge bottom. Named for its use in a later period.
             The tomb of a Nabatean king. Closeup shows how much stone needed to be removed.
                                       Shopping opportunities are everywhere!

Various tourist transportation options
Roof top dinner at our hotel, The Petra Moon
We spent one night at a Bedouin desert camp in Wadi Rum. Bedouin are nomadic people who used to be able to live off the desert in a time where the climate was much more conducive to herding live stock.
"Tents" had AC and bathrooms
Dinning room or outside
Wadi Rum Jeep ride to see the sunset
Always a camel option
Beautiful even in a dust storm

The vacationers
Where scenes from the movie, The Martian, were shot
We visited the Dead Sea again, this time the Jordanian side. It was much more developed than the Israeli shore where it was part of the uncertain West Bank "occupied territories." Also Israel has wonderful Mediterranean beaches.

Pool at the Crown Plaza Dead Sea
Beautiful beach setup
Sunset over the Dead Sea, West Bank in the distance.
Our final site of the trip was Bethany, where John the Baptist baptized Jesus. It seems pretty well documented that this was the site, but it's not at the present-day shore of the Jordan River because instead of being 150 ft. wide then, it is now 15 ft. wide due to climate change and pumping for irrigation.
Byzantine church commemorating the site
Believed to be the site, near the two blocks below. Upper structure is where Jesus hung his clothes.
Then back to Amman for our final night and goodbye dinner.
This is not the dinner, but a great shawarma lunch (~$3.50, Coke included)
We flew Royal Jordanian home the next morning - 13 hours Amman to Chicago, 5 hour layover then 4 more hours to Tucson. Great trip, but glad to be back in Tucson.

Tuesday, September 17, 2019

Bike & Barge in Belgium and Holland 25 - 31 August 2019

The trip was booked through MACS but operated by Boat Bike Tours using the Magnifique III. The Magnifique III is a 220 x 24 ft. canal barge that is fitted with 20 beautiful, airconditioned cabins. Ours was on the first deck and had big sliding windows.

We had 37 passengers. There were Lauve and I and two other couples, friends from Tucson, and the rest were all Canadians. Twenty of the Canadians were members of one extended family celebrating settlement of the estate of two relatives. They were a fun, diverse group.

Most days we road right from where the boat had docked the night before and met it again 40 - 60 km further on where we docked again for the night. We packed lunches from the breakfast buffet and had picnics along the bike route. There were guides, but you could also go self-guided using the map and cue sheet they provided. The six of us did self-guided because we wanted to bike in a smaller group  supplementing the map with a GPS app and a Garmin to take some of the guesswork out of navigating.
Ready to ride
Hybrid with 7-speed rear hub - men and women the same style
Frances had an electric assist version - easier for us all to stay together
Our picnic venue one day
We only had one morning with about 45 minutes of light drizzle where we really didn't get wet. The other days were either sunny and hot (90 deg. sometimes) or overcast. Later in the week it cooled off to be perfect riding weather.

                                        Dramatic contrasts in architecture - Gent, Belgium


Castle with friends

Tulips were finished but commercial flowers farms were everywhere

One ride took us past a popular beach where some of us dipped before our picnic
One of our frequent beer or coffee stops
One of our "deck hands" serving white sangria before...
...dinner  on deck
Dinner out one night in Antwerp - mussels
A picturesque square in Antwerp - typical of other towns
Some were cute rather than spectacular
A ten-story view from the tower in Antwerp
                                        Coffee stop with apple cake and whipped cream

Windmills are mostly for show, but saw one used to maintain canal levels

Stately manors on the way into Amsterdam
Muiderslot, a 13th century castle protecting Amsterdam
Our last night on the boat was docked in the Amsterdam harbor. We disembarked in the morning, found a local laundry and washed clothes before going to the airport for our trip to the Middle East.